12 Hours Drinking in Cape Town - Memories Not Material Things

I know what you might be thinking, ‘Not, another backpacker’s blog about getting pissed in a foreign city and waking up with all their money stollen and no clue where they are.’ Well, I’m not that kind of traveller, and this isn’t that kind of blog.  Besides, my liver can’t endure that kind of torture any more.  The 12 hours I’m talking about is the full range of drinking delights that Cape Town has to offer.

I recently returned to one of my favorite ‘hang-out’ cities on the globe – Cape Town.  With the luxury of having visited most of the tourist sights during my previous two visits, one less than a year ago, I took the time during my third visit to experience the ‘Mother City’ the way a local living here might.  It helped that on this occasion I was based in the hipster, creative suburb of Woodstock housesitting.  So without the distractions of cramming in the top 10 Must See Sights, I headed out on my first day back for a wander around the eclectic streets of this bustling, up-and-coming neighborhood.  Before I knew it, I found myself ‘drinking’ my way through the day at some of the areas top local establishments.

Here are my top tips for how to spend 12 hours drinking your way through the local delights of Woodstock, Cape Town, South Africa:

10.00am

My brother asserts that all days MUST start with a cuppa. Well if coffee is your morning vice, then Cape Town is definitely the place to be.  There are local roasters in nearly every major suburb producing smooth, yet strong coffees to perfection. I came across two in Woodstock alone, along with a half dozen or so cafes serving other regional blends, each from a different local producer. Spoilt for choice, I opted for a flat white (21 Rand) at Tribe on Albert Road.  Set off from the main thoroughfare by some distance, I was rewarded with a sunny courtyard retreat in which to sip my morning cup whilst feeling the light breeze of a March-time summer’s day. I have to agree with my brother, given the chance, all days should start with a relaxed brew.

Tribe Coffee Cape Town

12.30pm

If you didn’t know, South Africa is one of the best New World wine growing regions in the world.  One of my favorites of the region is the mineral hints in the Southern Right Sav Blanc. So partaking in a glass at lunch seems almost obligatory.  There are a number of top restaurants to choose from in this area, but my pick would be The Test Kitchen in the Biscuit Mill, which is ranked amongst the top 50 restaurants in the world. If you aren’t lucky enough to get table there, opt for the equally sensational sister restaurant Pot Luck Club.  Both divine places to while away a few hours over a leisurely lunch. (Equally nice is Harbour House down at the V&A Waterfront, which does AMAZING sushi.  See pic below.)

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16.00pm

With a glass that can easily turn into a bottle, my next advice would be to head off to the Woodstock Exchange to rehydrate.  This restored warehouse building, also on Albert Road, now houses a variety of artisan shops, businesses and studios with a unique vibe.  Near the entrance on the left was one such vendor.  From the window, teacups were hung by the handle with pastel silk ribbons, dangling in front of a delicate ivory decal announcing the cafe as Lady Bonin’s Tea Parlour. It took me some minutes to peruse the extensive menu.  If visiting South Africa for the first time, I’d recommend trying one of the hand blended loose leaf teas with either Rooibos or Honeybush, part of the Fynbos plant kingdom unique to the region.  I went ‘home’ with their invigorating African Delight (a combination of honeybush, orange, lemongrass, rose petals, rosehip, hibiscus and eucalyptus) along withe the intriguing sounding Red Choc Chili Chai (a decadent sounding blend of rooibos, masala spices, raw cocoa powder and a hint of dried chili). However, I opted for only tea on the menu that I’d never heard of before – a Puerh Tea (24 Rand for 2 pots). Described as the only tea on earth that gets betters with age, I couldn’t resist. It came in a Chinese earthenware pot and poured a deep crimson. The taste is best described as earthy and rich.  A unique alternative, but next time I’ll try the rooibos infusion with coconut milk.

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18.00pm

An essential part of any holiday routine, at least in my book, is the sunset cocktail, best taken with an ocean view, which luckily you can have in Cape Town. Originally, Woodstock was a fashionable seaside resort, dating back to 1666, but sadly today the area has been reclaimed. Although you can still get a glimpse of the Atlantic Ocean off in the distance, if you want a true beach view sundowner you’ll have to head to Camp’s Bay.  But, we are exploring Woodstock, so my local recommendation this time would be to head to the Woodstock Gin Company on Salt River Road.  Here you can sample a herbaceous gin distilled from the local fynbos plant.  Called the High Tea Gin, it is a refreshingly complex gin with lingering undertones of rooibos and honeybush, which are added post distillation. Uniquely South African flavours and refreshingly different from other gins, so I’m told. Unfortunately, I spent too long shopping in all the local up-cycled craft stores in the area to make it, but I’m planning to get there yet before I leave! (Postnote:  I did make it eventually!)

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20.00pm

However, I did make it to my final recommended drinking post in Woodstock – Devil’s Peak Brewery on Salt River Road. This tiny suburb of Cape Town is actually lucky enough to have two craft beer breweries, the other being Woodstock Brewery on Albert Road.  I choose the former as it was closer to my accommodation and it boasted having a stellar IPA, a style I’m particularly fond of. The 7% Black IPA (27 Rand) definitely did not disappoint. Strong, malty and potent, it was a treat for my overworked pallet. There were at least 8 varieties on tap, and if you struggle to choose, there was a tasting flight of 5 styles for 50 Rand. Had I got there in the daylight hours, I could have sat on the veranda outside taking in the views of this breweries namesake on the Eastern side of Table Mountain. Was it was, I sat inside and contemplated some of the delicious menu items from risotto balls to hamburgers. In the end, with my head pounding, I forsake both the tasting flight and dinner and headed back to the sanctuary of my homestay to curl up on the sofa with a bit of House of Cards and a cup of that African Delight.

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Okay, so maybe I couldn’t quite make 12 hours of drinking in Cape Town, but for a person with average stamina it is easily doable.  Some company might have helped too!

Reflecting on my leisurely day, I was reminded of a quote I saw early on the menu at Lady Bonin’s. 

“Drink your tea slowly and reverently, as if it is the axis on which the earth revolves.  Slowly, evenly, and without rushing towards the future. Live the actual moment.  Only this moment is life.’ – Thich Nhat Hang

I think that should be advised of all tipples, and perhaps why spending 12 hours drinking on holiday in Cape Town is such a pleasurable delight.  In doing so, just for a moment time gets suspended, adult responsibilities can be forgotten, and one can just enjoy each sip of the now.

(Note: At the time of publishing 16 Rand = $1US Dollars. So, needless to say, indulging in all these delights were not only satisfying but deliriously cheap too!)